Comida Aventura | 10 Days Eating in Buenos Aires
I was fortunate enough to spend 10 days in Buenos Aires, roaming the city hunting for the tastiest food Argentina has to offer. From breakfast to meat-filled dinners, the Eva Peron's city didn't disappoint.
Our first day was sluggish from time adjustments and travel fatigue, but we were able to meander to Voltaire Coffee and Deli, where I had the best quiche of my life. This husband-wife owned business were kind enough to take US dollars because we hadn't yet converted cash, and their back-and-forth banter made for an adorable ambiance. They also served my first limonata of the trip, whose tangy deliciousness remained unrivaled during the rest of my journey.
We also ventured down to the posh Recoleta Cemetary area, for crepes and bravas at cafe Pani. Honestly, the food in this swanky neighborhood was sub-par to the rest of our trip, but after miles of walking, I was grateful for a chance to sit down. With so many luxury stores, the restaurants seemed like a mall food court to me; crowded with teens, long lines, and cranky servers.
Dinner closed out the day with a BANG. La Cabrera Parilla is one of the most renowned steakhouses, a regular on the 50 best restaurants in Latin America. Of course the steak was perfectly cooked, but what raised the bar were the dozen or so sauces, sides, and dippings that came with it. I love sauces for my food, and this was a wonderful way to take a steak and make it transformational. The servers were sweet, attentive, and bilingual in the event you're a non-spanish speaker. Once the wine starts coming, it doesn't stop. Get ready to eat and drink your heart our here.
The second day of the trip began with our first coffee stop, Full City Coffee House, whose latte was reminiscent of a hispter coffee bar in Brooklyn. We then ventured through the San Telmo Market, Plaza Borrego Cafe, the Casa Rosado, the Kirchner Cultural Center, a few Cathedrals, Obelisk de Argentina, and the Julio de 9 Avenida, where we worked up quite the appetite. For dinner we had reservations at the exclusive la Carniceria. The food was fantastic, but this restaurant highlights some of the quirks in Argentinean restaurant culture – they lock the door and you can’t get in without a reservation.
Over the next several days, we hit up the La Boheme creperie, Felix Felicis Coffee – a Harry Potter themed café, Fukuro Noodle Bar for some fantastic ramen, and Piola Pizza. I had no idea that so many Argentineans were of Italian descent; thankfully the ancestry translates into amazing ricotta/tomato/basil pizza.
Don Julio, another world renowned steakhouse (45 on the best restaurants in Latin America), filled my stomach and my heart. Their sirloin steak is cooked (or not cooked) to perfection, the service is customer-driven and the waitstaff are patient with language barriers, making suggestions, and tending to your needs. Any bife order will be well worth your Argentinean pesos.
Taking a quick step away from the steakhouses, we wrapped up the trip with a visit to Osaka, an upscale sushi restaurant. Tucked on the second floor, this dimly lit indoor/outdoor space offered amazing ambiance and the best ceviche I’ve had during my travels so far. The small plate options made it easy to keep the food coming in constant rotation, and the bartender made great recommendations.
With our bags packed, we stepped out for one final lunch and were met with the single best meal of the trip. Tucked away in the San Telmo Mercado is Lo De Freddy (aka Nuestra Parilla), a choripan grill. The space isn’t fancy by any stretch – just enough room for grill tools, a few stools, and love notes from sausage lovers from around the globe. The sausage will change your life, and if I were you, I’d get on a plane right this moment and try it. Served on a toasted bread roll, you have the option of smothering it with red and green chimichurri (which you should absolutely do). Here is a link to learn more about this stop, but whatever you do make sure this is at the top of your list.
Our trip to Buenos Aires was filled with delicious bites at every turn. From intricately prepared seafood to the best steaks and sides a girl could ask for, this is definitely a food-lovers vacation spot.